Mushrooms in Cosmetics

By The Cosmetic Chemist Staff

November 15, 2016

In 1991, two German tourists found a frozen corpse in the European Alps (Austrian-Italian border) of an approximately 45-year old man (named Ötzi, or Ice Man) (1)from the late Stone Age (approximately 3,300 B.C.). The body was preserved in a glacier, and it is believed that the man died shortly before his body was freeze-dried and transformed into a mummy by the harsh Alpine winds and cold climate. These are the oldest intact human remains that have ever been recovered by modern man. Archeologists found a number of interesting tools and supplies in the Ice Man’s possession consisting of a copper axe, bow and arrows, handmade rope, pieces of leather, and a knife. In addition, the man was found carrying two types of tree fungus (mushrooms) that is thought to have served several functions.

There were two different polypore species of mushrooms that the Iceman was carrying, a tinder fungus (Fomes fomentarius) and a birch polypore (Piptoporus betulinus). Researchers believe that the tinder fungus found on the Ice Man was in fact used as tinder for building fires. Tinder fungus is not edible, but does have some medicinal properties. The Piptoporus betulinus species, on the other hand, is thought to have formed part of the Ice Man’s first aid kit. As indicated by its name, the birch polypore grows almost exclusively on birch trees, and has known medicinal properties in addition to acting as an antibiotic agent. Scientific investigations of the Ice Man demonstrated that he suffered from intestinal worms (Trichuris trichiura eggs were found in his gastrointestinal tract) and it is thought that he medicated himself with the birch polypore due to a toxin that it contains against these species.

It is incredible that 5,300 years ago man was aware of the pharmacological properties of mushrooms. Today, in many western civilizations, we are just starting to better understand what our ancestors may have known for some time. Mushrooms have antimicrobial, antiviral, antitumor, antiallergic, immunomodulating, anti-inflammatory, antiatherogenic, hypoglycemic, and hepatoprotective properties. In the last several years, a lot of attention has been given to the potential of mushrooms in treating the skin. Not surprisingly, a great deal of effort has be expended in launching commercial skin care products based on mushroom technology.

Biological Efficacy of Mushrooms in Regulating Key Pathways in Skin

Most of the known activity of mushroom extracts in treating skin is in the realm of antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase, anti-colleganase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activity. In terms of the antioxidant potential of mushrooms, they contain a wide variety of polyphenols and phenolic compounds, including but not limited to flavonoids, saponins, and tannins.

It should be noted that while a number of anti-tyrosinase agents have been found in mushrooms, there are also many other biologically active compounds present within their structures. In this short piece, we have simply highlighted compounds with anti-tyrosinase activity since this is one of the important areas in skin care.

Commercial Products Containing Mushroom Species

A number of products have been launched in the commercial marketplace in the last several years. Shiitake (Lentinula edodes) and reishi mushrooms (Ganoderma lucidum) are two of the most popular mushrooms used in skin care products. Other mushrooms found in skin care preparations include chaga (Inonotus obliquus), maitake (Grifola frondosa), antrodia (Antrodia cinnamomea), and Cordyceps (Cordyceps sinensis).

Concluding Remarks

There is a lot of excitement in the development of new products based on fungi species. Over the last two decades, most of the interest in designing natural products in the cosmetic industry has focused on species from the plant kingdom. However, recent work has demonstrated that ample opportunity exists in the development of novel technologies from the fungi kingdom. To date, most of the studies of mushrooms have provided insights into how they modulate biochemical pathways in skin. Future work should concentrate on determining the clinical efficacy of extracts and other compounds found in mushroom species.

THE ’SHROOM BOOM: WHY MUSHROOM SKINCARE IS THE BIGGEST BEAUTY TREND OF 2020

Once relegated to alternative health and wellness stores, mushrooms are now taking center stage in the beauty world. To better understand the fungi phenomenon, we caught up with some of today’s leading skincare experts to get their thoughts on the recent ’shroom boom, including the ingredient’s benefits and the best mushroom skincare products to shop.

by Alyssa Montemurro

Last Updated: Oct 15, 2020

“ SHOOOM BOOM”：

Mushrooms are everywhere right now. There are mushroom-inspired jewelry pieces and mushroom-embroidered frocks. A Murano mushroom lamp recently took over the Instagram feeds of dozens of influencers, only to cause a fungi frenzy at home décor stores. There’s even a free exhibition at London’s Somerset House dedicated to fungi-inspired art and design, and a shop full of mushroom paraphernalia. But nowhere has the ’shroom boom been felt more acutely than in the beauty industry. 

The use of mushrooms in skincare is hardly new — they’ve been used in Eastern cultures for centuries. But they are on the rise, owing to the increased interest in more holistic health and wellness practices amid COVID-19. 

“As elevated stress and anxiety continue to drive consumers to seek out solutions in the beauty and wellness worlds, I’ve noticed more and more brands answering these concerns with mushroom-powered products,” Alexia Inge, cofounder and CEO of Cult Beauty, tells us. “These products may include everything from adaptogens like ashwagandha to immunity-boosting reishi or shiitake.”

Fast-forward 15 years later, and mushrooms in skincare products is no longer just a niche trend. From anti-aging serums to health supplements, it feels like not a week goes by where there isn’t a new beauty product with “mushroom” listed in its ingredients. To better understand this fungi phenomenon, we caught up with several skincare experts to get their thoughts on the recent ’shroom boom. Ahead, discover the beauty of mushrooms and the top mushroom skincare products to invest in now for flawless skin.

 Mushrooms in Skincare: An Origin Story

Like so many of today’s biggest health and wellness trends, mushrooms have a deep-seated history in Eastern cultures. Traditional Chinese medicine has used mushrooms, specifically the reishi and Cordyceps varieties, for their healing properties for centuries.  

“Mushrooms are powerful both internally and externally,” explains Gabe Kennedy, founder of Plant People. “They support both innate and adaptive immunity when ingested, and when applied topically they contain tons of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties, which can help the skin’s anti-aging functions.”

“Many mushrooms are also classified as adaptogens, which are ingredients that have long been used in herbal remedies to restore homeostasis to the body,” says Michael Ahmad, senior director of global education at Herbivore Herbivore. “They do so by extending the resistance stage of the body’s stress response, supporting the normalization of hormone levels and reducing inflammation. When applied topically, those benefits are delivered to the application site. Simply put, mushrooms can help protect the skin from environmental aggressors and restore troubled skin to its peaceful baseline.”

A number of scientific studies and clinical trials confirmed as much. In a 2016 study, doctors found that mushrooms helped combat aging, reduced the severity of inflammatory skin disease, and corrected hyperpigmentation. In another study published in 2019, doctors discovered that beta-glucan, found in mushrooms, helped improve the skin barrier, making it particularly attractive to those with sensitive skin. Further evidence of mushrooms’ benefits came from a 2017 study which found that they contain unusually high amounts of two essential antioxidants that can help fight aging and bolster health. 

“Mushrooms occupy that unique intersection between ancient mysticism and progressive biohacking,” says Inge. “It’s like medicine man meets Silicon Valley.” As for the recent rise in mushroom skincare products, it’s all a matter of consumer readiness. “Mushrooms don’t have the instinctual allure of, say, rose,” says Inge. “You have to want to love them based on the evidence.” Thankfully, the evidence abounds.

Mushrooms and Their Skincare Benefits

There are more than 14,000 species of mushrooms in existence today, but not all are safe for consumption or topical use. Some mushrooms are deadly, while others heal and nourish the body. “There is tremendous genetic diversity within the mushroom category, and different extracts excel at different things,” explains Ahmad. “Some hydrate, some brighten, and others soothe. It’s all about aligning with the right mushrooms to treat your core concerns.”

Fortunately we don’t have to sift through every type to determine the best ones for our skin. After years of research and clinical studies, scientists can now determine the safest types for our complexions and the key benefits they provide. However, as celebrity dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross notes, “One of the most important things to look for in skincare products using mushrooms as an ingredient is the delivery system. Mushrooms must be formulated in a delivery system that allows them to actually penetrate the skin. You can’t just rub maitake mushrooms on your face. Encapsulating the mushroom increases its penetration into the skin’s deep layers and absorption through the cell membranes.” The result? More effective skincare. 

Below, discover six of the most popular mushroom varieties being touted by skincare experts and the unique beauty benefits they provide.

Chaga Mushrooms

Good for: neutralizing free radicals, promoting a healthier, more even skin tone

Chaga mushrooms are one of the most popular varieties used in the beauty industry today, and for good reason. Proven three times more effective at fighting free radicals than acai berries, these potent fungi are among “one of the most antioxidant-rich foods in the world,” claims Kennedy. It’s those high levels of antioxidants that, according to Gross, enables them to “neutralize free radicals and have anti-inflammatory properties to help increase blood circulation. This ultimately helps ensure an even skin tone and increased nutrient delivery to the skin.”

Cordyceps Mushrooms

Good for: anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits 

Traditionally regarded as an energy- and stamina-boosting ingredient, Cordyceps have proven antioxidant effects when applied topically. Gross says this ancient mushroom possesses anti-inflammatory properties that “stem from its ability to positively affect the immune system by fighting oxidative stress.” In other words, it’s a bit of a multipurpose ’shroom. As such, it’s used in many skincare products today, specifically to hydrate skin, boost collagen and elastin production, and soothe inflammatory skin conditions.

Reishi Mushrooms

Good for: improved barrier function, soothing inflammation, anti-wrinkle benefits

“We love reishi and use it in all of our topical skincare formulas,” raves Moon Juice founder Amanda Chantal Bacon. “This adaptogenic super-mushroom supports the skin’s resilience against stressors, soothes skin, locks in moisture, and improves barrier function. Anyone that has stressed, sensitive skin can benefit from reishi.”

Adds Kennedy, “Reishi is the queen of mushrooms. It has historically been used to promote longevity, but when applied topically it is known to cool inflammation and redness with its anti-inflammatory properties. It also possesses strong anti-wrinkle benefits.”

Shiitake Mushrooms

Good for: fading dark spots and scars, evening skin tone, brightening the skin

Shiitake, one of the most readily eaten mushrooms, contains an array of beauty benefits. Composed of high levels of kojic acid, shiitakes are “a phenomenal option for evening skin tone,” says Ahmad. As such, the ingredient is often used in beauty products to help brighten the skin, fade dark spots and acne scars, and treat hyperpigmentation.

Tremella Mushrooms

Good for: increased hydration and skin-plumping effects

Also known as snow mushroom and silver ear mushroom, tremellas are spongy, translucent ’shrooms with hydration-boosting benefits. “If you struggle with chronic dehydration, products featuring tremella, like Herbivore’s Pink Cloud Cleanser, are a great option,” says Ahmad. “Tremella can attract and retain up to 500 times its weight in water, making it a highly effective humectant/hydrator.”

“We use silver ear mushrooms in both our topical skincare and supplement formulas to help hydrate and reduce the appearance of lines,” Bacon says. “Silver ear mushrooms attract and lock water into the skin by forming a protective barrier to prevent water loss. Its small molecular structure gives it the ability to go deep into the skin, where it provides lasting hydration and plumping effects.”

Trametes Versicolor Mushrooms

Good for: antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, increased blood flow

Often referred to as “turkey tail,” trametes versicolor is a common polypore mushroom known in holistic health communities to be a powerful immune booster. Though not as frequently used in beauty products, their high antioxidant levels and unique composition make them one of the more interesting ’shrooms lining beauty shelves today. Their medicinal magic lies in a compound called polysaccharide K (PSK), which “helps stimulate the immune system and reduce inflammation,” says Gross. “This allows for better blood flow and improved cellular DNA” (aka younger-looking skin).

WHY MUSHROOMS ARE THE MAGICAL INGREDIENT YOUR SKIN NEEDS

Words by George Epaminondas, 11 October 2019

LOADED WITH SKIN-BOOSTING PROPERTIES, MUSHROOMS CAN CALM, BRIGHTEN AND EVEN HEAL YOUR SKIN. NO WONDER THEY’RE THE “IT” INGREDIENT. WOULD YOU LIKE A SERVE?

We’ve long been told we are what we eat. But now that our bathroom cabinets resemble our kitchen pantries—think of all the avocado, blueberry, turmeric, coconut water and goat’s milk treatments in there—we are what we put on our skin too. When it comes to nutrient-rich foods, mushrooms hold a singular place. In terms of their dietary clout, they are rich in Vitamin D, inflammation-fighting selenium and health-boosting antioxidants. Applied topically, these fabulous fungi can reduce visible redness, calm irritation and brighten your complexion. Turns out the humble ’shroom can give your skin a little va-va-voom.

The outsize benefits of mushroom are not a recent revelation: they have been relied on in traditional Chinese medicine and Indian Ayurveda for generations. According to one estimate there are over 40,000 species of mushrooms, including psychoactive types, yet the breakout star is reishi. With its weird tawny colour and wonky shape, reishi is not the prettiest variety. But what it lacks in aesthetics, it makes up in applications. Ultimune can effectively slow ageing: it is clinically proven to strengthen skin, restore firmness and defend against daily damage.

Mushroom Has Officially Arrived *In* Skincare To Divide The Masses Even Further

https://www.bustle.com/p/mushroom-beauty-will-be-huge-in-2020-so-here-are-the-products-to-try-19771980

By Rebecca Fearn

Jan. 8, 2020

Mushrooms: they're a bit like Marmite. You either love them, or you hate them. With their grey-ish appearance and sometimes slimy texture, hating them is understandable, and yet, they can taste so delicious, and they have a surprising amount of health benefits. However, not only are they brilliant to eat in your favourite dish, they're also making a name for themselves within the beauty world. Complexion products with mushroom extracts are particularly taking off, but does mushroom skincare actually work?

While mushrooms have been used for many year in certain areas of the world (in traditional Chinese medicine, for one), the West's new-found obsession with them really began when plant-derived skincare started to become popular. In fact, the global mushroom market is expected to increase from $35.08 billion (£28.9 billion) in 2015 to $59.48 billion (£45.5 billion) in 2021, according to Stylist. As a natural ingredient, mushrooms have become increasingly attractive, and they certainly do have a number of benefits that make them even more appealing.

For one, they're excellent at helping protect the skin from pollution, and other environmental aggressors. "Most mushrooms have high antioxidants and contain metabolites that can help fight free radicals,” Tiina Isohanni, vice president of research and development at Lumene told Stylist.

“Others reduce melanin content and inhibit tyrosinase activity (melanin production), which helps brighten skin and fade dark spots, and many have anti-inflammatory properties," she continued. "They’re also high in vitamin D, which is essential in supporting the skin’s immune system.”

So in short, they also help to brighten dull skin and aid pigmentation, as well as soothe stressed-out skin. Impressive, huh?

There are numerous types of mushrooms that can be used in skincare. Cordyceps, for example, are popular, while chaga and sheep polypore are also used. You may have also heard of shiitake and reishi being used, both of which encourage cell renewal and increase skin elasticity.

And then there's snow mushroom, which looks set to be the biggest trend in this area for 2020. Snow mushroom (or tremella fuciformis as it is formally known) can hold up to 500 times its weight in water. While this is half the amount hyaluronic acid can hold, the particles in Snow Mushroom are smaller, meaning they can penetrate, and thus hydrate, more effectively.